The rise of pickling and fermentation in British cuisine

The rise of pickling and fermentation in British cuisine

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The enduring tradition of pickling and fermentation is gaining popularity in Britain, championed by Nick Vadasz, founder of Vadasz Pickles. In his debut cookbook, The Pickle Jar, Vadasz offers accessible recipes and shares the emotional ties to food from his family's history.

In recent years, the culinary landscape in Britain has begun to embrace a tradition deeply rooted in Eastern European and Asian cultures, with pickling and fermentation taking centre stage in the nation’s food scene. This shift, which has transitioned from limited encounters with oversized jars in fish and chip shops to the accessibility of artisanal products in supermarkets, has been punctuated by the journey of Nick Vadasz, known widely as The Picklesman and founder of Vadasz Pickles and Ferments.

Vadasz, 59, originally launched his pickle venture from a shipping container in 2011 and has since expanded to include products in significant retailers such as Tesco and Morrisons. "I always wanted for people to enjoy our products beyond the middle class foodies that go to farmers’ markets," he remarked, articulating his satisfaction with the mainstream acceptance of kimchi and sauerkraut. His venture has facilitated a wider exposure to fermented foods, indicating a notable cultural shift in British cuisine.

In conjunction with his business success, Vadasz has also published his debut cookbook, The Pickle Jar, which aims to demystify the processes of pickling and fermentation. The book offers a variety of recipes that integrate these elements into everyday meals, steering away from the traditional view of pickles being relegated to sides for sandwiches. Recipes include options like a chicken salad featuring fermented celery and a pea and pickle soup, showcasing how versatile pickles can be beyond their conventional uses.

A significant aspect of Vadasz’s culinary journey is his personal connection to food, notably through familial ties. He recounts learning to make pickles from his Hungarian grandmother, who brought a jar of her pickles when escaping war-torn Hungary, illustrating the emotional resonance of food in his life. "Gran was a big part of our family, very loving, but her family suffered a lot during the Second World War," he explained, adding, “This story of them having something to sustain them on their journey, it’s a good metaphor for times of strife."

Describing his own dietary habits, Vadasz admits he consumes kimchi daily, pairing it with various dishes from savoury pancakes to shepherd’s pie. His culinary education did not stem from formal academic pathways — instead, he learned cooking techniques alongside his father, a doctor who shared a love of food through shared cooking experiences. The emotional connections to his heritage and past resonate throughout his work and products.

Reflecting on his professional career, Vadasz acknowledged the challenges of working in high-pressure kitchen environments, likening the restaurant industry to the struggles depicted in the hit series The Bear. Despite these challenges, he learned valuable lessons about perseverance and creativity, ultimately leading him to pursue his passion for pickles and ferments with a focus on creativity and innovation.

Vadasz transitioned out of daily operations with the sale of his business in 2017, although he remains actively involved in creative aspects and product development. Expressing nostalgia for the early days of his venture, he recalls the excitement and energy of selling directly from the shipping container, before adapting to the operational shifts of a larger company.

His aim with The Pickle Jar is not merely to provide recipes but to inspire confidence in home cooks to experiment with pickling and fermentation. He encourages readers to explore new culinary potentials, stating that he hopes to motivate them to think creatively about the use of pickles and ferments in their cooking. "It’s about confidence, and to have the confidence to be a bit more creative," he added.

The Pickle Jar is available for £20 from Hamlyn, and it stands as a fusion of culinary tradition, personal history, and a new wave of British food culture embracing the tangy, rich world of pickling and fermentation.